By V S Krishnan

Among the first batch of guests who came out after a marriage feast in the Kalyana Mandapam at Palakkad was the beaming Krishna Iyer. As he relaxed comfortably in a chair, the host offered him the plate of 'Thamboolam'. (Betal leaf, nut, lime etc.) "No" declined Krishna Iyer. "But why not?" enquired the guest. "Because" replied Krishna Iyer, "if there was space enough for this beeda in my stomach I could have enjoyed one more round of Paaladai". The dhoti-clad, bare -chest, Narayanan, resting in a corner of the hall after a laborious day, felt elated by this comment. He had reasons to feel so because as Chief Cook in-charge of catering, this was the first feedback he got about the quality of his workmanship.

There are many Krishna Iyers in Kerala who have a lifelong obsession towards Payasam, especially the Paaladai Pradhaman variety. The patent of Paalada Pradhaman is exclusively owned by Kerala cooks and their Tamil Nadu counter-parts are still struggling to master its technical know-how, without success of course. Paalada Pradhaman is a must for any marriage feast in Kerala. Normally, when the guests return after the marriage function, just as the look of the couples or their new attire, the quality of Payasam served is also discussed and reviewed. Sometime, when invitations are received for more than one marriage functions on a Muhurtham day, it becomes difficult to chose which one to attend. But the person with a real "taste" has no such predicaments. He makes discreet enquires through some friendly sources and finds out which cook has been engaged for each function. He goes to that function where the cook happens to be of the caliber of Narayanan.

In fact, Payasam is an integral part of Kerala culture. It is a most indispensable item during any auspicious and festive occasion. As its name itself suggest, Pradhaman ranks as No.1 among all food delicacies. Lord Ayyappa is described as Payasanna Priya (One fond of Payasam) Saastha Preethi; a function to invoke the blessings of the Lord is never complete without a free-flow of Payasam. Though this function is conducted at many places, the one held at Paravur, near Cochin, can be classified as Saastha Preethi No.1, if I may use this statement used for Hindi film titles like Bibi No.1, Hero No.1 etc. At my very young age, it was a case of 'love at first taste" for me and my father took me all the way from Trichur to Paravur in an effort to find answer to my insatiable urge for Paaladai.

Go to any temple in Kerala, particularly Guruvayoor or Ambalapuzha, and you can find long winding queues before the Payasam counter, evidently because what is favorite for the Lord is the favorite for the devotees too. In a literate State like Kerala, no two persons agree on anyone thing, but when it comes to Paaladai Pradhaman, the King of all Payasams, everyone agrees that such a delicious item has no parallel anywhere. While a feast is in progress, the arrival of Payasam resembles all the characteristics of a Queen coming to attend a Royal function. The moment server appears with Payasam, the face of the children lit up with joy. The elder folks, who may be discussing the possibility of Pakistan using nuclear weapons on India, suddenly shift their focus to this important aspect of Payasam. Sometime during Saastha Preethi function, there is a custom of singing a "Keerthan" to welcome the Payasam. While the singer is immersed in his song, others would be advancing fast, so that they would not miss the next round. However, there is no risk of the singer being left behind, as he will thoroughly be compensated with additional offerings.

Normally, a South Indian feast consists of four major items. First, rice with sambar, then with rasam, the climax with Payasam and the grand finale with buttermilk. Some make it a point to take the first two items sparingly so that enough 'provision" is made to accommodate the King of all food delicacies. But a true lover of Paaladai Pradhaman does not take that risk. He knows that his favorite item is capable of finding its way by creating space for itself. Does not a mass of crowd automatically pave way for a running elephant?

In Tamil Nadu where I am permanently settled, I find a great handicap that Payasam of any variety, let alone Paalada Pradhaman is not accorded that much of importance as in Kerala. Since it does not enjoy a "mass appeal" here, it remained out of my bounds for so many years. So, when I was transferred to Cochin, I was thrilled because what was eluding me all along was at last going to be accessible. "Payasam Mela" constitute one of the many attractive features of Onam, So, on the Onam day, I promptly reached the Grama Jana Hall at Ernakulam with a big container. But lo and behold, I was told "Sorry, you have not made advance booking." It was then I realized that I had under-estimated the real value of Paaladai Pradhaman. With disappointment writ large over my face, I returned home by moaning: "Oh, my dear Paaladai, you have been too near and yet so far"! But it was not a story that ended in tragedy after all. My neighbor, after hearing my plight, managed to get some quantity for me, which I enjoyed sharing disproportionately with my wife and daughter. Unfortunately, hopes of my future encounters with Paaladai were short lived, as I was transferred back to Erode the next year.

Some occasional marriage functions of my relations at Kerala provided the only opportunity of reviving my Payasam connection. During one such occasion, I was sitting in a row, along with other guests, eagerly waiting my turn to be served. Unfortunately, after serving the guest sitting just before me, the server found his vessel empty and he went back to replenish it. He did come back with his vessel brim and overflowing, but imagine my shock! He started serving from the guest next to me. Apparently, he thought that I had already been served. Anyway, I managed to regain my balance. After all, I consoled myself that someone will get married soon and there will be another occasion for a date with Paaladai. The occasion came sooner than expected in the form of a marriage invitation from a relation. I set out from Erode quite early morning and arrived the Kalyana Mandapam at Palakkad just in time for the Muhurtham. After showering the "Akshadai" on the couple and blessing them happiness and prosperity, I promptly took a seat in the Dining Hall along with a friend. All paraphernalia over, and the time for Paaladai Pradhaman came. I was well prepared for a 'sumptuous fill' and then, to my astonishment, I found that it was just the usual 'Paal Payasam'. To my query, my friend replied that: "Palada Pradhaman had already been served on the occasion of Maappilai Azhaippu yesterday night." Why not they all follow a uniform pattern of serving Paaladai either on the eve of the marriage or on the marriage day so that Paaladai lovers like me can select the day accordingly?

So, just like the hunt for an elusive Veerappan or Bin Laden, my hunt for Paalada Pradhaman goes on. Yet I keep on hoping, that one day I would be able to catch my target and deal it with a firm hand.

Mr V.S.Krishnan is son of late V.M.Subramania Iyer, Textile Merchant, Trichur. He served Rashtriya Chemicals & Fertilizers Ltd., as Marketing Officer for 35 years and recently retired. VSK says his entry into Marketing was more an accident and he would have opted, if a choice was given, for Journalism. However he keeps his interest alive by contributing articles to various publications. His son is a Software Engineer in USA while his daughter is a happy house wife.